Archive for the ‘Learning // Teaching’ Category

Photo Class // Composition + Cropping…

I’m so excited to have Kelly from Daphne Photo Studio doing a guest post on composition and cropping. Kelly is a good friend of ours and she is among those I respect most with a camera in her hands. She’s been nice enough to agree to talk about what makes an image stand out via creative crops and composition. Thanks Kelly! – Ryan

When Ryan asked me to do a guest post for his photo class series, I jumped on the opportunity to talk about composition and cropping. I spent four years in college earning my BFA in photography, so I think my background in art has definitely helped me grasp the importance of good composition. Now that I have started my photography business, I am constantly challenging myself to come up with new and interesting compositions so my work can stand out among all of the millions of professional photographers in the world today.

In my opinion, composition is one of the strongest elements of any piece of art (not just photographs), yet it can also be one of the most commonly overlooked aspects that goes into taking a picture. I think the natural tendency is to want to capture a scene as we see it, but often times the way our human eyes see it is not the most interesting. By composing the scene with our cameras (or by post production cropping) to highlight certain areas of interest, our pictures automatically become more pleasing to our eyes and make a more powerful impact on other viewers. The way we compose our photographs can prompt our viewers to imagine the rest of the scene and that in turn will invoke a certain emotion in them. That is the ultimate goal – to engage our viewers with interesting compositions!

You may have heard of these before, but I will touch on a few pretty common “composition rules”…

The Rule of Thirds

This is probably the most common and most popular composition rule out there. Basically the rule of thirds says to imagine that your picture is divided into nine equal segments by two vertical and two horizontal lines. By placing your subjects or most important elements along these lines or where they intersect, you add interest to your photo. To put it simply, don’t always place the people or objects you are photographing in the center of your picture.

redscooter_thirds

IMG_3101_small

This rule works especially well when taking landscape photos. If you want to emphasize land or water, place your horizon line 2/3 up from the bottom. If you want to emphasize the sky, place your horizon line 1/3 up from the bottom like this:

horizon_thirds

Some digital cameras even have the option to superimpose a grid over the LCD screen to help you visualize this rule, so you may want to check your camera and see if you have this option.

The following are a few other “rules” that can make a picture more powerful and engaging.

Viewpoint

Try taking a picture from a different viewpoint than you normally would and see what happens.

pews

yellowbuilding

Depth of Field

Ryan touched on depth of field when he talked about aperture, and although it is easy to see in pictures, it is somewhat hard to explain. To give you an explanation I turned to Wikipedia and I like the definition they gave: “Depth of field is determined by the subject distance (that is, the distance to the plane that is perfectly in focus)”.

Photographs are 2-dimensional, so it is important to create depth to guide the viewer into the scene (which was obviously 3-dimesional). This can be done with a slightly wider depth of field as seen in the first picture or an extremely shallow depth of field as seen in the second picture.

dock

guitar

Framing

When you hear the word frame, most people think of a wooden or metal square with some glass that protects your picture and hangs on the wall. Have you ever thought of using architectural elements or other things in nature to frame your subjects?

frame

Background

I cannot stress enough how important it is to pay attention to the background when photographing your subject. So many people take pictures with trees or poles growing out of their subject’s head or place their subject in front of a busy background that is totally distracting to the viewer. If you want your subject to be the main focus of your photograph, then make sure the background helps to emphasize your subject rather than detract from it.

dan.05

opie

Cropping

Cropping is probably the easiest way to instantly make a so-so composition into a masterpiece. And one important thing to remember is that cropping can be done AFTER you take the photo. Do not hesitate to take a picture that does not look perfect to you at first because you can always crop it using photo editing software later. A lot of times I will take several versions of the same picture at different focal lengths and angles because I know I am going to crop it later and I would rather have a bunch of options to work with rather than just one.

When trying to think of how you want to crop a picture, it might be helpful to think of the intended use or purpose of the picture. For instance, I knew that I had a square frame that I wanted to use for the dandelion picture on the left, so I played around with a couple versions of a square crop in photoshop and settled on the one on the right.

crop

Here are a few other examples of how cropping to highlight a certain point of interest can be very effective:

callaway

Moore-51

Moore-134

Javis.Theresa-55

The best advice I have is just to experiment! Art is extremely subjective and the more you practice and experiment, the better you will become at creating interesting compositions and developing your own style. Good luck!

Photo Class // Shutter Speed…

What the heck is shutter speed?

A short explanation would be that shutter speed is the amount of time the camera exposes film, or on a digital camera, the image sensor to any given scene you are shooting photos of. These times are most often small fractions of a second such as; 1/1000th of a second, or 1/500th, or 1/250th, etc..

You can imagine your own eye popping open for just a split second to see what it is you need to see and then closing it tightly again.

Shutter speed is my second most used “photographic alteration”. What I mean by this, is that I deliberately change the shutter speed sometimes to achieve different types of results. Check out this illustration below to see how different shutter speeds can give far different feels to same photo opportunity.


Depending on the subject matter, you might want to set your shutter speed to something high to freeze action, or you could set it low to help create “motion” in the photograph.

Allison, Ava, and I were riding the train at the Cincinnati Zoo a couple of days ago. This train is rather slow. It might top out around 5mph. Here are two different shutter speed examples from that train:

This first image is shot at 1/50th of a second. You can see a slight bit of blur to it, but it’s mostly “frozen” even though we were careening down the tracks at speeds upwards of 5mph!!
1:50second

This second image has the shutter speed slowed down to 1/4th of a second as we wind around the bend. There is nothing in this photograph that is actually “in focus”. But focus wasn’t the goal for this image, motion was. I couldn’t keep this image in focus at a quarter of a second long shutter speed because I was hand-holding the camera (without tripod), the train was moving (and bumpy), etc.. But you know what? It looks pretty cool and it gives you the feeling of motion.
1:4Second

Here is an image that I shot indoors. It was a long shutter speed of 1/3 of a second, but I had set my camera on a bench. This allowed the non-moving items in the photograph to stay still, while some faster moving things, such as certain fish, got blurry.
1:3second

Pushing the shutter speed to 2.5 seconds really intensifies this effect.
2.5seconds

Higher shutter speeds can freeze action. This shot is at 1/2000th of a second.
DSC_0040

1/4000 of a second:
DSC_0159

Sometimes, a really fast shutter speed isn’t the best thing to show action. This shot was taken at 1/80th of a second and it was just slow enough to really accentuate the movement.
niceform

General guidelines regarding shutter speed

- Fast shutter speeds freeze action.

- Slow shutter speeds create motion.

Freezing action is not always good, and creating motion is not always good. This is certainly going to be a trial-and-error area of photography. Finding that good balance of movement within your photograph will be the key.

Changing shutter speeds on your camera will be similar to the way you change apertures.

ShutterPriority

On a point-and-shoot, you can put the camera into a sports or action mode and it will give you a faster shutter speed. Slower shutter speeds are fairly hard to achieve with a camera like this.

SportsAction

You will really start to see the limits of your point-and-shoot camera when it comes to adjusting the shutter speeds. If you’re looking to get some really good action shots of sports or even just keeping up with the kids outside, a digital SLR camera is really the way to go. We’ll talk about what the heck a digital SLR even is in future posts.

As for now, feel free to post questions (or answer questions) relating to shutter speed or anything else you might be corn-fused about. Now get out there and practice it!!

I’ll leave you with a shot I took when I was 18 years old on the Roaring Fork trail in Tennesee. It was a 15 second long exposure, tripod in the stream early that morning. Water becomes silk.

Roaring Fork

Photo Class // Aperture…

What the heck is aperture??

We’ll talk about that in a minute.

First, you need to understand that people take photographs…not cameras. It does not matter what kind of camera you have. The type of camera that you have might allow you to do certain things that others can’t, but it doesn’t make you a good photographer. It just doesn’t. I have watched many people drop thousands of dollars on the highest-end photographic equipment and you know what? They still sucked at photography. Trust me, I used to manage a retail photography shop. You wouldn’t believe how bad some of the photographers are who own the best equipment in the world.

And again, that’s because people take photographs…not cameras. With that said, we are going to explore some of the ins and outs of photography this week no matter what type of camera that you have. It could be a $50 point-and-shoot or a $5,000 digital SLR.

Now I will say this, it would be nice if you have some control over the cameras settings, such as aperture or shutter speed…or ISO at least! (more on what those terms mean later) Just know that whatever you have, the goal is to get the best possible photographs that you can get. Don’t expect to go 200mph in a Ford Pinto and we’ll be on the same page. More bells and whistles will allow you the opportunity for different kinds of photographs…however, you can never underestimate the artistic potential of a creative photographer with a $10 camera.

Moving right along…

I’d like to start things off with a little info about APERTURE. I want to start here because I tend to do the most “photographic alterations” with aperture. I change the look and feel of my photographs with aperture. I keep my camera in “Aperture Priority” mode at least 90% of the time. This mode allows me to change apertures on the fly…blah, blah, blah…

Here. Look at this.

Imagine these are wine corks placed on a diagonal approximately 2 inches back from one another. This should be easy to envision…as that’s what these are.

SetUp

Now check out this illustration that I’ve created to show you what different apertures AKA f/stops can do for you. It’s all about depth-of-field baby.


You like that, don’t you? Go ahead. Look at it again. Sure. Another time is fine. I’ll be right here whenever you’re ready.

Done checking it out? Cool. You see what’s happening there right? That’s right. The depth-of-field is changing with the aperture. You see, the aperture is the opening in which light is able to travel through a lens on your camera. It doesn’t matter if you’ve got an automatic point-and-shoot, or a really advanced camera with lots of interchangeable lenses. It’s still working with apertures.

Look! I stole this photo from the aperture page on wikipedia.

Aperures

Image #1 shows a lens with a “Large” or “Fast” aperture. It’s f/1.8 to be exact. Image #2 shows the same lens with the aperture changed to something “Small” or “Slow”. f/22 to be exact. The larger the number, the smaller the opening in the lens. That’s why it is considered slow…it will slow down the time it takes to expose the photograph. F-Stops are the measurements of apertures. Examples of F-Stops would be; f/1.4, f/1.8, f/2.8, f/3.5, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/13, f/16…and so on and so fourth.

Honestly…if these numbers mean nothing to you, that’s perfectly okay. Here’s what you need to know:

Small Number = Large Aperture

Smaller aperture numbers, or f-stops, indicate a larger opening in the lens. This allows more light to come through the lens and a faster exposure. It also creates a more shallow depth-of-field.

Here’s an image that I shot at the zoo yesterday. I had my aperture set to f/1.4 – This created a nice, sharp foreground image of the foliage with some elephants blurred out in the background.

f/1.4
ElephantsF:1.4

Large Number = Small Aperture

Larger aperture numbers, or f-stops, indicate a smaller opening in the lens. This will allow less light to come through the lens and makes for a longer exposure time. It will also create a deeper depth-of-field.

Here’s another image shot in the same area, with the aperture set to f/11. This created an image that is sharp in the foreground and in the background. The depth-of-field grew much larger with the smaller aperture.

f/11
ElephantsF:11

Confused yet? Here’s an image that shows both large and small apertures at the same time:

f/32 on top…f/5 on the bottom
800px-Jonquil_flowers_merged

Big number (such as f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32) means big focus. Big depth-of-field. Big exposure times.

Little number (such as f/1.4, f/1.8, f/2.8, f/3.5) means small focus. Small depth-of-field. Small exposure times.

More examples:

f/1.4 – Extremely shallow depth-of-field
Machete

f/1.8
DSC_0105

f/8 – Wide depth-of-field with foreground and background in sharp focus.
DSC_0601

f/22
DSC_0463

Aperture is a part of every camera/lens combo. You may or may not have complete control over aperture depending on what camera you have. If you’ve got a point-and-shoot camera, the aperture control might look like this:

PointShootMode

Most small cameras have a portrait and landscape function within the “scene” menu. What does portrait do? It changes the aperture to a smaller number aperture…this will blur out the background and create a nice, shallow depth-of-field portrait.

What does landscape mode do? It changes the aperture to a bigger number which will create an image with a wide depth-of-field.

How about on a SLR camera?

AperturePriority

The “A” doesn’t stand for auto. It stands for Aperture Priority. This is the mode I use most often on my camera. It allows me to quickly change the aperture. Having a quick control over this function allows me to choose from a variety of photographs in my head.

I would love for you to check out these sites for more info:

http://thepioneerwoman.com/photography/

www.kenrockwell.com

Feel free to ask questions and even answer questions within the comments of this post. I’ll be checking back in later today to answer whatever I can regarding aperture.